Why French Fries Remind Me Of Decision Making

There’s a specific kind of French fry I am drawn to. Though I’ve never been one to turn down one that’s soggy—if it’s still starchy and has a layer of fat, slightly salted, I’ll shove it down. And then feel guilty afterwards. Why don’t I save those bites for the perfect French fry? The one that’s crispy, salted without coating every millimeter of my overworked gums, that I can hear when I bite down. That’s the one I long for. That’s the one I need.

Have you ever had just a meal of French fries? When I’m feeling particularly inexpensive-minded, I’ll get to that point, and I make sure I have plenty of sauces to dip them in. It’s a false sense of a well-balanced meal, falsely providing varied ingredients, answering to those savory and sweet necessities. (If I’m lucky, there’ll be ketchup and mayo to choose from.)

On the occasion I’m out to dinner and the chance for an appetizer arrives, I’ll jump at the menu option. Especially if it’s five dollars and served with a “trio of dips.” In this case they happened to be curry ketchup, wasabi mayonnaise, and some-kind-of pesto. Atypical choices for fried potato strips, but varied enough to convince you you’re wading through three different cuisines.

With each bite of a French fry, you can make the decision to eat the whole thing, with one kind of sauce, or you can dip, bite, double dip (another sauce), bite again. And again. If you’re greedy you dip in all three, creating your own flavor profile. I just like the option of choices to dip in. But sometimes I wish I didn’t have that many choices—because I’ll never be able to tell you what my favorite is.

Trinity Restaurant
84 Broad Street
Keyport, NJ

Posted in In Limbo, Obsessions, Summer | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

South American Alternatives to the Upset Stomach

Sometimes food makes you sick. That feeling, that awful awful feeling—you know the one when you wake up in the middle of the night partially consumed with a headache. At first. The moment you let the blood rush from your prostrate body to reach the tip of your head and the tip of your toes, the sickness morphs into nausea. I’m never able to figure out if it’s food poisoning or a food that just wants no business being in your stomach. And then sometimes you can blame the anesthesia from your epic dental work. (When you have a sweet tooth and a genetic history of fillings, tooth decay will creep up on you. And so will the needles.)

So what do you eat later in the day once you get all the toxins out of your system? I’m always told bananas. Apple sauce. Saltines. Rice. Something that will linger, turn to mush in your body. But I had the apple juice and the saltines for “breakfast.” They were the first foods my body saw when she woke up, not ready to have her head lifted from the pillow.

So instead I got a huge, 3 pound (what it seemed to my paralyzed arms at the time) five-dollar plate of Guyanese food. The special that day was “Curry Pork.” I just saw a steam table with a bunch of mush and figured if my body didn’t know the cuisine, she wouldn’t know otherwise, and she’d be fine. She’d be surprised, but she’d probably welcome the change. Cubes of curry pork, albeit surrounded by a thick layer of fat, yellow rice with black beans, curry roasted potatoes, and a choice of steamed cabbage or fried plaintains. Steamed cabbage, please. Is that the health option? With a side of hot sauce, you know, because “is it spicy?” translates to “I’ll give you extra hot sauce on the side to make it as spicy as you want.”

And the result?

Posted in Experimenting, In Limbo | Leave a comment

Red Beans: From Can, To City, To Mouth

Ah, the red bean cake, the kind of pastry I never thought I’d eat growing up Sicilian and German. Outside of sweet Asian pastries, I’ve tended to stay far away from the red beans: kidney beans don’t really do it for me. I’m more of a black, cannellini, or garbanzo kind of gal. They’re always at the salad bar, breathing and waiting for owners. Though they provide a little bit of color, they’re just as boring as their differently colored and shaped colleagues (unless upgraded by a vast amount of cooking/smashing, or a bunch of sweetness—these amazing black bean brownies come to mind.)

These days, the only way I’ll take red beans is in paste form, with sugar and who knows what else made in the production line at one of the takeaway food counters at Mitsuwa in Edgewater, NJ. The first time I ever had a red bean pastry was a filled doughnut somewhere near Grasshopper, a delightful vegetarian restaurant in Boston. My friend Elinor claimed they were vegan, though they’ll rest better in my memory if I just recall them as delicately enhanced by the filling, so much more appreciated than a glob of custard which would’ve jutted out in the opposite direction of my bite. It’s paste, right? It stays in the doughnut. Gravity don’t do nothin’ to this personally pedestaled pastry.

Empty stomach and clean, prepared taste buds required. You never just buy one. You get a box of five. And you wait for a spare moment when your driving hands don’t have the doughy pocket of paste in them to look at your styrofoam and realize that you’ve torn through them all. Guess that trip into Harlem’s stone-throw-mirrored-city is worth it. Your gut will thank you later. It’ll scream with kind memories.

See more photos after the jump.

Posted in Experimenting, Memories, sugar | 1 Comment

Sugar, Brown Sugar, Butter, Cinnamon, Flour: At 5, and at 25

Crumb cake. My mom always used to have this crumbly, powdered sugar or drizzled sugar covered pastry fresh from the local bakery. I used to analyze the layers, cake, swirls of cinnamon, topped with tiny knobs of brown sugar rolled in butter. The soft cake and the crunch of the oh-so-bad-for-you mixture. I would always cut myself a generous piece, knowing that my mouth would water the instant it touched my tongue. As I got older, the cake seemed less and less appealing, replaced by more experimental pastries like raisin danishes, pull-apart cinnamon buns, pain au chocolats, and banana walnut muffins. In time, pastries on the whole were replaced by healthier breakfast offerings like steel cut oats, Greek yogurt with fruit, cream of wheat, granola and soymilk.

When my mother wants to remind me of the days when I wasn’t much concerned with nutritional value but rather with the simple taste of sugar and butter, she’ll buy her favorite crumb cake, cut it into pieces for all of us. This time, it was for father’s day. My dad can never turn down a pastry. And though I stared at the plate of crumb cake while we ate breakfast, I didn’t eat a bite of it. I stared at it and remembered that sometimes you should forget about your intentions of being “healthy” and use food, even just visually, as a way to revive childhood memories. Back when times were about brown sugar, butter, and flour, and your mother using the pie cutter to make a perfect rectangle. And you finishing it off with wet fingertips, hoping to get every last crumble in your mouth.

Posted in Baking, Breakfast, Down Home, sugar | Leave a comment

Bread As A Method Of Delivery

My mind cycles thinking about what I would like for dinner on nights when I have a single vegetable in the fridge. A half eaten container of yogurt won’t feed these brain cells right now. In a city where you don’t know the ins and outs of, you tend to assume you’ve had all that you love, and the old loves will always do the trick. Tonight I tried something new. There’s a food cart outside the Grove Street PATH station called El Imperio owned by a young man named Alex from Guadalajara, Mexico. He’s bringing Mexican “sandwiches” to Jersey City. I did some research and the one sandwich I ate (La Original, $7) looks to be a version of the torta ahogada, birote bread filled with pork, pinto beans, chile de árbol sauce, and onions. I talked to him while waiting for my sandwich—he’s got a chef in the tiny cart cooking everything while he lingers outside—and he said he only wanted to start a food cart after getting the perfect bread. Apparently his baker created the bread especially for him. Once he had the perfect bread, he had the perfect sandwich.

And while I wouldn’t call the sandwich perfect, it’s pretty damn close to the answer to a long, exhausting day. The juicy pork mixed with the pinto beans, the spicy (and I mean spicy) sauce, the onions lacking an overwhelming bite, the bread soaked up by all the ingredients, like a shovel—like a spoon. An edible spoon that you want to keep in your memory. The crunch becomes what you long for as you chew your previous bite. What’s a sandwich without the perfect tool to deliver the taste that you’ll catalog in your memories? When you eat with a spoon, it’ll always lag behind to remind you what you just ate. When you have the perfect-situation-sandwich, all you have left at the end to remind you are a few dirty napkins and sauced fingers. If only there was a way to keep the crumbs in your pocket for safekeeping.

El Imperio Food Cart
Grove Street PATH entrance, in front of Duane Reade @ Newark Ave.
Jersey City, New Jersey
menu @ WiredJC
comments @ jclist

Posted in Handmade Food, In Limbo, Memories, Obsessions | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment